At the exit from Mali Kazan, the ascent to Belo Brdo begins – the second of the two significant climbs we mentioned earlier. At the end of the first third of the road, there is a resting place and “Decebal” viewpoint, which offers the best view of the 40 m high face of the last Dacian king, carved into the cliff on the Romanian bank of the river.
At the entrance to Tekija there is a lovely sandy beach where it is worth taking a break (perhaps even camping?), and in the centre, there is a well-stocked store. Then, about 13 km further on, you will pass along the dam (and border crossing), HPP Djerdap 1.
The well-preserved remains of the Roman castrum Diana are just a few kilometres further, about 300 m left of the road, and Fetislam Fortress (known to have been built by the Turks) is at the entrance to Kladovo.
After Kladovo, there are several smaller climbs to pass to get to Brza Palanka. At the large intersection 2 km from Brza Palanka, follow the signs for EuroVelo 6/13, and they will take you to a beautiful old road, which mostly hides just a few meters from the Danube.
This 17 km long, very easy section to the village of Kusjak near the HPP Djerdap 2 dam is one of the most beautiful on the entire Danube route in Serbia, but keep in mind that it has unpaved sections (the rest are mostly good macadam roads), especially in the first part – up to Mihajlovac village.
Between Kusjak and Negotin, you will pass the typical “Gastarbeiter” (guest workers) village of Samarinovac, so if you have only read about the magnificent houses in which almost no one lives, here is your chance to see some for real.
In Negotin, we recommend the Krajina Museum and the pedestrian zone, and in Mokranje village (where you descend after overcoming the rugged hill on the way out of Negotin), pay attention to some of the beautiful houses representing the old architectural style. Finally, at the entrance to the village, you can turn to Mokranjske Stene, a fascinating scenery with karst that looks as if it was just thrown into the gentle surrounding greenery (you can also bathe there in the summer).
Behind Mokranje, near the railway line to Zaječar, there is an intersection where the main EuroVelo 6 route goes left (and continues through Bulgaria via the nearby Bregovo border crossing). However, here you turn right: the EuroVelo route 13 will take you to Zaječar, 43 km away.
This fateful turn (every good tour must have at least one of these!) introduces you to an undulating, lush green landscape where the road gets narrow and seems almost abandoned as if it is not sure where to go, so it constantly intertwines with the railway. This is also the area with the best-preserved Negotin Pivnice, stone settlements built in the 18th century by local residents in order to be closer to their vineyards. The first of them, Rogljevske, is located right next to the road. To reach the most famous, Rajačke Pivnice, diverge a bit from the route and go uphill for about 4 km – an effort that is absolutely worth it!
The picturesque greenery continues beyond Rajac, so you will have to conquer several steep climbs to get to Zaječar. Beyond the village of Šipikovo, you pass along the Bulgarian border, so check your brakes and do not rush in the curves. Not far from the road, in the fields behind the forest, are the only signs that this is where the European Union begins – a border made of low bushes and a few tall watchtowers left over from the Iron Curtain times.
And here we are, in Zaječar already (which deserves a separate story…) A total of 310 km from Ram… was it really that far? And all those days on the road… wait, how long did it actually take?
But it flew by quickly, beautiful, blue and green, wasn’t it? 🙂